Introduction Assuming you have an adequate electrical supply and a means of controlling temperature in the grow area, expect to pay about $1000.00 to $2500.00 USA for lighting, hydroponic garden, seeds, grow books, and all the other mandatory items needed.
Updating an electrical system to provide more electricity and/or installing central air conditioning to cool a grow area, can increase the budget required to set up a grow area by thousands of dollars.
Once you get things set up you can continue to grow hydroponic marijuana with your set up and only have to spend money on electricity, bulbs, nutrients, other maintenance or upgrades. A very wise investment of money for any marijuana consumer.
In addition to saving money in the long run, growing your own will give you the opportunity to produce clean and healthy marijuana that is safe to consume. Something you can't count on when buying from someone else.
By cultivating your own product, you will not have to deal with unsavory characters that often populate the world of marijuana distribution, and purvey an inferior product at eye-watering prices.
Links are provided to the products discussed so you can get an idea of the cost involved. As you gain experience, you may wish to consider getting some of the optional items with the money you save by producing your own marijuana instead of buying it.
EC Or TDS Meter
EC Or TDS Meter: EC and TDS meters measure the amount of dissolved solids in nutrient solution. This tells how strong the nutrient solution is.
Nutrient requirements are very low in the beginning at the germination, clone, seedling stages. As the plant progresses, nutrient requirements increase.
EC and TDS meters allow hydroponic growers to ensure they are supplying the correct strength of nutrient for the stage of life the plant is in.
EC meters and TDS meters that are accurate can be found for a reasonable price. A very inexpensive model like this that measures both EC and TDS works well.
Most EC and TDS meters are calibrated prior to leaving the factory, but will drift with use and need to be calibrated regularly, every 6-12 months or so.
Floor Covering: The area where the hydroponic system is placed might need some kind of floor covering that will protect it from water and nutrient spills that will happen.
A thick drop cloth, the thick plastic sheets painters use to protect items from paint damage, will do a good job. Get something that is larger than the area of the hydroponic garden.
If your garden covers a 4 foot by 4 foot area, an 8 foot by 8 foot or larger drop cloth will be good. If it is too big, you can cut it to any size you need.
A plastic drop cloth should be 2 mils (a mil is 1/1000 of an inch) or thicker so it will stand up to use without leaking. Although the thickness should be stated on the package, this is not always the case.
You should be able to find a drop cloth in the paint section of a local hardware or department store. Be sure to get something made of thick plastic or another material that will repel water so you can mop it up.
Stay away from canvas or anything that will absorb liquids. If you can't find one at a store near your home, you will be able to find something suitable online.
Fluorescent Lighting: For germination, clones, seedlings, the amount of light required to grow them is minimal compared to vegetative and flowering stages. Fluorescent light works very well for this purpose and can be fairly inexpensive to purchase.
Because the light needed to grow younger plants is not as great, running a low wattage fluorescent light will cost less to operate than stronger light systems.
Compared to other sizes of fluorescent light fixtures, the 48 inch size is most common and produced in larger quantities. Because of this, purchasing and getting replacement bulbs for them is usually cheaper.
A 48 inch fluorescent light fixture that is suitable for growing marijuana plants, hydroponically or with soil, can be acquired for a reasonable price.
There are fluorescent light fixtures designed strictly to be grow lights. They are usually more expensive than standard fluorescent light fixtures.
Under most circumstances fluorescent grow lights don't do a better job than standard fluorescent light fixtures. One exception is the light reflection characteristics.
Fluorescent grow lights should be designed to reflect light down, to the plants under it. A standard fluorescent light fixture may or may not reflect light down.
They may have nothing to reflect the light, so some of the light goes to the side as well as down. Keep this in mind when purchasing a fluorescent light for growing marijuana.
Fluorescent light fixtures are usually two to four feet long, but other sizes might be available depending on where you shop.
Look for a model that holds at least 2 bulbs, rated at 30-60 watts each. A minimum of 60 watts is recommended to grow at least 12 clones or seedlings in a small hydroponic system like a cloner.
When clones or seedlings get large enough, they can be moved from a small hydroponic system like a cloner, to a larger hydroponic system that will give them more room to grow.
A larger number of plants, or plants spread out over a larger area in a larger hydroponic system, may necessitate stronger lighting or multiple fixtures in order to provide adequate illumination for each of the plants.
Fluorescent lights come in 3 bulb diameter sizes T5, T8, T12. You have to get the correct bulb to run in the fluorescent light fixture you purchase.
T5 bulbs are the most efficient.
T8 bulbs are the second most efficient.
T12 bulbs are the least efficient.
Most fixtures can only run one type, T5 or T8 or T12, but some can run more than one type of bulb. Get a basic fixture with no light cover.
If you buy a fluorescent light fixture with a light cover, remove the cover prior to installing it. This is so a minimum of light energy gets wasted.
Fluorescent light bulbs colored between 4100k-6500k are recommended for germination, clones, seedlings, during the vegetative stage.
A higher k rating will limit the height of a plant a bit more, when compared to a lower k color rating.
Remember to get bulbs that are the right color, wattage, length, bulb type (T5, T8, T12) to work with the fluorescent light fixture you choose.
Try to place the plants under the center of the fluorescent bulbs. The strongest light will fall under the center of the bulbs, so it is best for plants to be under that region.
See the page about grow lights for more information about fluorescent and other types of lighting for growing marijuana.
Grow Books And Movies: If you haven't purchased any of the materials needed to setup your hydroponic operation, watch a movie or read a book to get a good understanding of everything involved before spending a lot of money.
They will show you how to plan your grow room and the steps involved in growing marijuana. This is a very cheap way to decide if growing marijuana is something you wish to try.
If after reading or viewing them you are you sure you want grow, you can invest in the items you will need. A full list of marijuana growing books can be found here but here are a few ideas.
If you find instructions and books about growing hydroponic marijuana overly technical and hard to follow, grow great marijuana is the easiest to understand.
It will explain the steps involved in growing hydroponic marijuana from start to finish, with text and images. Recommended for beginners only.
The book the cannabis encyclopedia is a reference manual with over 500 pages and color images throughout. Describes growing marijuana indoors, outdoors, or in greenhouses with hydroponics or soil. Recommended for beginners and more advanced growers.
An alternative to books is the ultimate grow dvd. This movie shows step by step instructions covering the basics involved in growing a crop of marijuana indoors, with hydroponics or soil.
It won't teach advanced techniques but it will give you an idea of how to set up a grow room and raise a crop. Running time is about 100 minutes.
Residents of Canada can find a good selection of marijuana growing books, in addition to the books that are described above, at amazon.ca
grow great marijuana
the cannabis encyclopedia
ultimate grow dvd
Hydroponic System: A crucial decision when growing hydroponic marijuana is the type of system you decide on. See the hydroponic system part of this grow guide before buying a hydroponic system.
The cost of a hydroponic system can be high. Cheaper models tend to be too small while larger models that are good for growing hydroponic marijuana tend to be expensive.
The size of the grow pots that the roots are growing in can limit the size of a plant. In order to allow enough room for the roots to grow, a small hydroponic marijuana plant needs a 1 gallon grow pot.
That means for a small marijuana plant the roots should have room that is at least equal to the area occupied by 1 gallon of water. A 2-5 gallon grow pot is needed for large plants, like when only 2-4 plants are grown at a time.
Otherwise the roots will not have enough room, and at some point they will signal the plant to stop growing. This will not kill the plant but it will limit the overall size of the plant, and the size of the harvest.
An option for first time growers is the grow flow, an ebb and flow hydroponic system. It comes with 12 grow pots, so you can grow 12 or fewer plants at a time.
The grow pots are 2 gallons in size and the reservoir holds 55 gallons of water and nutrients. The large reservoir will reduce pH drift and how often you have to change the nutrient solution, when compared with a smaller reservoir.
This would be suitable for growing 2 fairly large hydroponic marijuana plants with about 250-400 watts of light. You can layout the grow pots and place them to suit the shape of your grow area and light reflector.
The company also makes an inexpensive add-on kit with 6 growing containers that are 5 gallons in size. You could install the 5 gallon growing containers instead of using the 2 gallon containers that come with the hydroponic system.
With the 5 gallon growing containers in the add-on kit, you could grow 2-4 large hydroponic marijuana plants with 1000 watts of metal halide or high pressure sodium light or less, without restricting growth.
A rough guide for growing container size per plant is:
4 gallons or larger with 1000 watts of mh or hps.
3 gallons or larger with 600 watts of mh or hps.
2 gallons or larger with 250-400 watts of mh or hps.
A bigger growing container than what is necessary is fine. A larger area than required for the roots to grow in won't harm the plants. If you ever want to increase the light, the extra room will support larger plants.
Lighting: You can use fluorescent lights for all stages of life, except flowering. When it is time to start flowering, you will need a metal halide or high pressure sodium light source.
A good idea for a light source during flowering is a dimmable ballast. They are also handy for vegetative, and earlier growth stages, if you want stronger light than fluorescent.
No need for several light systems that can only run one wattage and type, mh or hps, of light. Almost all dimmable ballasts can run either mh or hps lights at several wattages.
Some dimmable ballasts have 3 settings, 100%, 75%, 50%.
--- A 1000 watt dimmable ballast with 100%, 75%, 50% settings will provide 1000 watts, 750 watts, 500 watts of power respectively to a metal halide or high pressure sodium bulb.
--- A 600 watt dimmable ballast with 100%, 75%, 50% settings will provide 600 watts, 450 watts, 300 watts of power respectively to a metal halide or high pressure sodium bulb.
--- A 400 watt dimmable ballast with 100%, 75%, 50% settings will provide 400 watts, 300 watts, 200 watts of power respectively to a metal halide or high pressure sodium bulb.
There are also dimmable ballasts like this that let you choose more than 3 wattage settings. It gives the option of choosing between 12 wattage settings.
With a dimmable ballast you can run a bulb at, or slightly below its rated wattage. Try to use a bulb that is as close to the ballast wattage, without exceeding the wattage of the bulb, as possible.
If you are running a dimmable ballast at 200 watts, run a 250 watt bulb rather than a 400, 600, 1000 watt bulb. Underpowering the bulb too much might alter the light spectrum and/or shorten the life of the bulb.
If you have an older light system that is limited to only running one type of light, only run the type of light the ballast was made for. Do not try to run a metal halide bulb with a high pressure sodium ballast, and vice-versa.
Low wattage led or low wattage compact fluorescent lights are good as supplemental lighting. They can be placed at the darker edges of a marijuana garden, where the light is less intense than it is directly under the light.
See the article about grow lights for more information about the types of lighting for growing marijuana, grow light reflector hoods, dimmable ballasts, other related info.
Light Hanger: As the plants grow the height of the light must be increased so as not to burn the tops of the plants. You can buy a pre-made light hanger or make one yourself with stuff you find at a hardware store.
Marijuana Seeds: Getting female clones from a from another grower is an option for a new grower, but most people start from seed.
Keeping seeds from marijuana that you smoke, if you ever come across any, is the cheapest source of marijuana seeds.
But it is better when you know the origin of the seed, is it an indoor or outdoor variety, is it relatively easy to grow, what is the expected harvest time, etcetera.
An article about seed strains that discusses things like choosing the best seeds strain for your needs and their availability can be found here.
Media: Most types of hydroponics utilize media for the plant roots to grow in and anchor themselves to.
Wait until you get a hydroponic system and see what the manufacturer recommends before purchasing media.
Nutrients: A good choice for a 1 part hydroponic marijuana nutrient is maxigro and maxibloom. They are in powder form, you add water, so that you are not paying for shipping a large container that is mostly water.
Maxigro can be used by itself as a 1 part nutrient for germinating, clones, seedlings, vegetative growth. Maxibloom can be used by itself as a 1 part nutrient for flowering.
Maxigro and maxibloom are employed by more experienced gardeners, but they will be especially appreciated by novices who want a nutrient that is easy as possible to work with.
3 part nutrient systems are used in all stages of life, but the amount of each particular part is varied depending on the stage.
For people who want more control over the relative amounts of the various nutrients being supplied to their plants, multiple-part nutrients are the way to go.
The flora series (floragro, florabloom, and floramicro) is a good examples of a 3 part nutrient system for hydroponic marijuana growers.
There are other brands of hydroponic nutrients that will also provide good results like those stated above. You may want to try various brands to see what works best for you setup.See the page about nutrients and hydroponic marijuana for more information. Things like water, nutrient solution strength, leeching, other related topics are covered.
Oscillating Fan: A good way to circulate air in the grow room is an oscillating fan. The fan or fans should be aimed at the plants so that all the plants show some leaf movement when the fan blows over them. A gentle breeze is better than a strong gust of wind.
Larger sized fans can move more air. If space is a consideration, look for oscillating tower fans. Tall oscillating tower fans can move a lot of air but have a small footprint.
For the first time grower, a model designed for home use, costing under about $50, is a better idea than an expensive heavy duty industrial unit.
pH Related: pH should never go below 5.3 or above 6.5, even for short periods of time. A pH level between 5.8 to 6.2 is optimal, and if possible the pH should always be within this range for healthy plants that grow as quickly as possible.
A pH meter is a very good way of measuring the pH of hydroponic nutrient solution. However, the price may make meters out of reach for growers on a budget.
In general, pH meters that cost under about $45 are less accurate and slow. They should be avoided unless quick and accurate measurements are not important.
Besides the pH meter itself, you also need to purchase pH calibration solution to calibrate the meter with, and may require electrode storage solution to extend electrode life/minimize how frequently you have to calibrate the meter.
Be sure to get a pH meter intended for liquids if you have a hydroponic garden. Some pH meters are strictly to measure soil pH.
An inexpensive pH test kit is a good way to measure pH for hydroponic growers on a budget. They are not as accurate as pH meters but they will do the job.
Look for a pH test kit for measuring liquids, that can at a minimum measure pH between 5.0 and 7.0. A pH test kit for hydroponic applications is recommend, but aquarium test kits may work too.
First time hydroponic marijuana growers on a budget should consider getting a pH control kit. It contains everything you need to measure and adjust the pH of hydroponic nutrient solution.
A pH control kit like this contains a pH test kit to measure the pH of liquids like water or hydroponic nutrient solution, pH-up to raise the pH, and pH-down to lower the pH.
A pH controller is very handy and will allow you to easily maintain optimum pH levels automatically, without having to be there to physically do it yourself. The drawback to pH controllers is the price, several hundred dollars.
See the page about pH and hydroponic marijuana for more about pH and hydroponic marijuana, with information about measuring and keeping it within acceptable limits.
Scissors And Cutting Tools: To cut the main stem and large branches, some kind of a tool like pruning shears might be needed. Grown indoors, most marijuana plants will have a main stem that is at least 1/2 to 3/4 inches (1-2 cm) thick, outdoors it will probably be larger.
For removing large leaves, your hands, a pair of scissors, snips, or another similar cutting tool will work. For manicuring, micro snips, a bonsai pruner, or a cutting tool with small sharp blades is essential.
The blades have to be small in order to be able to fit into tight areas to cut away leaf and stem in hard to access places. You will be manicuring for a while, be sure to get something that is comfortable on your hands.
Thermometer: A thermometer will be necessary to monitor temperature. A normal household thermometer that can measure between 50-90°F/10-32°C will work.
Some hygrometers have built in thermometers so you can measure the temperature and humidity together. Inexpensive ones are fairly good and will save you from having to buy them separately.
Timers: You will need a timer to turn your light on and off. Some systems require a pump and another timer to circulate the nutrient solution.
Outdoor timers are recommended for turning your lighting off and on in a hydroponic environment because they are more rugged (and water resistant) than indoor models.
The outdoor heavy-duty grounded timer shown here is good for any light system up to, and including, 1000 watts. An indoor timer can be used but if you haven't bought a light timer yet, get an outdoor model.
Timers used to turn on pumps that circulate nutrients will generally only need a light-duty timer, they don't consume much power. You can use a heavy duty timer for a small load, but a timer designed for small loads might be cheaper.
Water: Distilled or reverse osmosis water are needed when growing hydroponic marijuana. You can usually find them for sale at any grocery store.
A reverse osmosis system to filter water is a good idea. There are fairly inexpensive models, considering how important water is to hydroponics, that do a very good job and do not cost much to operate and maintain.
If you have a basic knowledge of plumbing they are easy to install. If not a plumber should be able to hook one up for you, in an hour or so.
Air Cooled Lighting
Air Cooled Lighting: Grow lights can produce a lot of heat. Sometimes this heat raises temperatures above a safe limit for the plants.
An air cooled lighting system has an enclosed light and forces air to provide cooling. You can buy light systems that come with an air cooled enclosure or you can buy an enclosure to put your existing light into.
The enclosed light has an air intake supply and an air exhaust. When the air exhaust is fed to another room or outside, most of the heat produced by the light is expelled from the grow room.
See through plastic or glass is fitted to the bottom of the unit, or around the light, so light can pass through but most heat doesn't.
Some type of appropriate duct is attached to the air intake opening and heat resistant or insulated duct, like the stuff used on clothes dryers, is usually attached to the air exhaust opening.
An inline fan is then hooked up to the duct one or both ends. Heat can be quickly expelled through the air exhaust and replaced with cooler air from the air intake.
An extra large reflector with ductwork for 6 inch or 8 inch fans is recommended. The size of the extra large reflectors, larger than 30 x 20 inches, or 76 x 51 cm, allows the light to be spread over a large area.
Ductwork for 6 or 8 inch fans allows the heat to be removed quickly. When the temperature is warm indoors, the air should be exhausted outside.
Hooking up the exhaust to vent outdoors is fairly simple, like installing a dryer or oven exhaust. The process is similar for drawing outside air through the intake duct.
During colder months, the warm air can be exhausted into another area of the house so that the heat is used rather than being wasted by exhausting it outdoors.
Extra large air cooled reflector manufacturers usually recommend 600 or 1000 watt bulbs. Lower wattage bulbs may work but you have to make sure the light is as close to the plants as possible.
Air Filter or Air Purifier: Making sure the air in the grow room is clean will be of paramount importance to medical marijuana patients. It might not be a priority for recreational users but it should still be important.
Air purifiers with hepa filters do a very good job of filtering and purifying grow room air. Take the size of the grow area to be filtered in mind when getting one.
Air filters and purifiers will have a rating of the maximum area, usually in square feet, that they can keep clean. My honeywell 17000 is recommended for up to about 150 square feet. The hepa filter lasts about 2-3 years.
Aquarium Heater: A submersible aquarium heater will help raise the temperature of water or nutrient solution for a hydroponic system when it gets too cool.
A rough idea of the wattage that the heater should be is 5-10 watts per gallon of water or nutrient solution the reservoir holds. The higher the wattage, the quicker it will raise the temperature.
Carbon Dioxide (CO2): One of the best optional items to look at is a carbon dioxide meter. Knowing your plants are getting enough carbon dioxide will give you peace of mind.
A reliable CO2 monitor will usually cost $100 or more, beware of cheaper ones, they tend to break after a few years. An accurate and relatively inexpensive model is located here.
Have had this model in the flowering room since 2010 with no problems. Besides carbon dioxide it monitors the temperature and humidity of the room it is in, also includes a clock.
It has an alarm that allows you to set low and high carbon dioxide warning levels. When the carbon dioxide level gets too low or too high an alarm will sound.
If necessary there are various carbon dioxide generators available. They will raise the carbon dioxide in the grow area they are in.
See the page about marijuana and carbon dioxide located here for more information about measuring and keeping CO2 at optimum levels.
Cloner (Clone Machine): A plant cloner is a unit designed to be used during the first stages of growth to start clones or seeds in.
When the plants have grown to a point where they are large enough, they are transplanted from the cloner to a larger hydroponic system.
Green Light: If you have to work near flowering plants during the dark period, a green light bulb is a good idea.
Green light will not affect the plant during the dark period, so you don't have to worry about the plant not starting to flower because it got light.
Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2): A product like hydrogen peroxide is good to have for sterilization purposes when growing hydroponic marijuana.
Adding hydrogen peroxide to the nutrient solution in the reservoir for sterilization purposes during germination is recommended.
As the plant grows it is better able to defend itself, but hydrogen peroxide can be added to nutrient solution at any and all stages of the life cycle, not just for germinating.
Rather than getting hydrogen peroxide from a pharmacy that may contain additives, for this purpose you can get 29% or 35%, or other concentrations of hydrogen peroxide, that is food grade or designed for hydroponic applications.
For 29% hydrogen peroxide, add 3.0 milliliters of hydrogen peroxide per 1 gallon/3.8 liters water or nutrient solution.
For 35% hydrogen peroxide, add 2.5 milliliters of hydrogen peroxide per 1 gallon/3.8 liters water or nutrient solution.
Hydroponic and food grade hydrogen peroxide also comes in 17.5% concentrations. Add 5.0 milliliters of 17.5% hydrogen peroxide per 1 gallon/3.8 liters water or nutrient solution.
Hydrogen peroxide can lower pH. If you are maintaining the pH level within certain limits, measure and if necessary, adjust the pH after adding hydrogen peroxide to water or nutrient solution.
If not diluted, high % hydrogen peroxide can harm skin. If it comes into contact with your skin, wash the affected area thoroughly with water as soon as possible.
Hygrometer: A hygrometer is a tool to measure humidity. If you think humidity is a problem or would like to know how humid the grow room is, get a hygrometer.
You can usually find them in the housewares section of a department store. Some hygrometers have built in thermometers, you can use them to measure both the temperature and humidity.
Light Mover: A grow light mover is a tool that keeps a lighting system in constant horizontal motion. This is a very efficient way of using metal halide or high pressure sodium lights.
By moving the lights, a larger area can be covered than would be with a stationary light. This means a light is able to cover more plants in a larger area than a stationary light of the same wattage.
A moving light will also be able to pass closer to a plant without burning it, so plants get stronger light that penetrates more of the lower branches. Plants tend to grow towards light and a moving light provides more even source, plants tend to grow straight up.
There are 2 types of light mover designs. One system works by moving the light on a rail system by means of a motor. The other type rotates the light in a circular motion that is similar to the way a ceiling fan works.
The circular type is recommended for growing areas that are roughly the same dimensions, a circular or square growing area, while the rail type is better suited to long and narrow grow rooms, a rectangular growing area.
Some rail types can be purchased in sections, this allows you to choose a custom length. You should choose the length of track based on the shape and size of your garden and the amount of light you have.
Different wattage lights will be able to cover different size areas. Stronger light will allow longer track lengths. These are approximate distances of the maximum length of rail that different wattage lights will cover.
a 250 watt light - 3-4 feet (0.9-1.2 m) of rail
a 400 watt light - 6 feet (1.8 m) of rail
a 600 watt light - 8 feet (2.4 m) of rail
a 1000 watt light - 10-12 feet (3.0-3.7 m) of rail
Don't base the length of track solely on the amount of light you have. A 400 watt light will produce enough light for about 6 feet of rail. But if your plants only cover a 3 by 3 foot area, a 4-5 foot section of rail might be a better choice.
Light Reflection: There are several options for reflecting light back onto plants. Painting walls white will reflect some of the light that would have been wasted back on the plants.
Covering walls with poly film, white side reflecting the light, will also do a good job of reflecting light back onto the plants.
However, a commercial reflector like mylar will be the most effective at reducing the amount of light that gets wasted.
Measuring Spoons: When nutrients are being put in the reservoir that will feed the plants, some type of measuring device is needed to ensure the correct amounts are being added. The most common instrument employed for this purpose is a set of measuring spoons.
The size of spoons you need will be dictated by your nutrients and the size of the reservoir they are added to. For example, if the nutrient you use is added to water at a ratio of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon and you have an 8 gallon reservoir, the total amount of nutrient you need would be 2 teaspoons.
For the purpose of this example, a measuring spoon set with a 1 teaspoon size would be appropriate. However, in real world applications a set with some larger and smaller sized spoons would also be needed for times when you wanted to mix up very large or small batches of nutrient solution.
Smaller size spoons are especially helpful for clones and seedlings, when a very mild nutrient solution is required. They also come in handy when mixing up small batches of nutrients or when odd amounts, like 1/4 gallon, are needed.
A small measuring spoon set often consists of spoons marked tad, dash, pinch, smidgen, drop.
tad = approximately 1/4 teaspoon
dash = approximately 1/12 teaspoon
pinch = approximately 1/16 teaspoon
smidgen = approximately 1/32 teaspoon
drop = approximately 1/64 teaspoon
Note Book: A note book (or even a computer text file) to log pH, nutrient, and other items of a similar nature is a good idea.
For example, keeping a record of how much pH-up or pH-down was needed. Or what the EC or TDS reading was when you added a certain amount of nutrient.
Ozone Generator: If the smell of the growing plants is strong you can use ozone to decrease or eliminate it. If you would like to buy a commercial unit, you can compare prices here.
Commercial ozone generators tend to put out large amounts of ozone. Instead of having them running all the time, a timer will allow a grower to set times for the ozone generator to turn on and turn off.
pH-Controller: A pH controller is very handy and will allow you to easily maintain optimum pH levels automatically, without having to be there to physically do it yourself. The drawback to pH controllers is the price, several hundred dollars.
Scales: Some people may wish to know the weight of the marijuana they produce. Digital scales are inexpensive, small, and accurate but any scale that is accurate, and can hold the material to be weighed, will work.
Some small scales include a tray that is put on the weighing platform. If you plan on getting a digital scale to measure the weight of dry herbs and plants, look for a model that has a tray included.
A scale with a tray like this would be a good choice if you plan on using a scale for measuring small amounts of marijuana, or any other herb. A scale like this is recommended for weighing up to a few grams of dry plant material at a time.
If you need a scale to weigh items that are larger than a few grams, a kitchen scale that can weigh several grams to several pounds at a time is recommended.
The kitchen scale here is very good. It can accurately weigh items as small as a few grams, and items as large as a few pounds, in 1 gram increments.
When needed, a bowl can be placed on it and set to 0, by pressing the tare button. Anything added to the bowl that weighs over a gram will register on the display.
When you need a scale that will be weighing larger amounts, a fish scale, with a capacity of your choice, will make weighing your harvest an easy task.
Spray Bottles: For foliar feeding, spraying hydrogen peroxide to sterilize items, other similar jobs, spray bottles come in handy.
Foliar feeding is applying liquid nutrients to plant leaves. Simply dilute some of the nutrient solution in the hydroponic system and put it in a spray bottle.
The nutrient in the spray bottle should be diluted so it is about 10%-25% of strength of the nutrients being supplied to the roots.
Water Chiller: A water chiller will lower the temperature of water or nutrients solution, if it becomes necessary to do so.
A 1/10 hp water chiller is good for chilling a reservoir that has a capacity of up to about 25-50 gallons of water or nutrient solution.
For larger reservoirs or to cool the water or nutrients solution more quickly, a water chiller model with a larger hp rating is required.