MarijuanaNutrients And Growing Hydroponic MarijuanaNutrient (or fertilizer) is food for plants. Marijuana plants need a certain amount of food in order to grow properly. The primary nutrients in plant foods are Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium also called Potash (K). In addition to nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium, marijuana plants require a lesser amount of secondary nutrients and trace quantities of other elements. Secondary nutrients are calcium, sulphur, and magnesium. Trace elements are small quantities of boron, chlorine, cobalt, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Plant foods are measured in an N-P-K format A 7-4-3 plant food contains: A 30-15-15 plant food contains: The percentage of the solution not used by nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium is secondary nutrients, trace elements, and/or inert material. An all purpose nutrient with secondary nutrients and trace elements will get you through all stages of growth. But during different stages of life, you can adjust the nutrient levels to optimal quantities. Regardless of the nutrient you choose, during the first 1-2 weeks of life and the first 1-2 weeks of flowering, use half the amount (or less) of nutrient solution the manufacturer recommends. That is, if the nutrient package says to mix one tablespoon of nutrient to every gallon of water, you should add less than half a tablespoon of nutrient to every gallon of water for the first 1-2 weeks after germinating or cloning, and when flowering is initiated. This is not essential when flowering, unless the plants have just been transplanted, but it is for seeds and clones. Some marijuana growers don't add any nutrients to the water for the first 1-2 weeks. They then use a 50% solution for 1-2 weeks, then go to a 100% solution. During seedling/vegetative growth the plants need lots of N (nitrogen). They also need a fair amount of P (phosphorus) and K (potassium), 7-4-3, or 30-15-15, or something with a similar ratio of N-P-K, and secondary nutrients, and trace elements will work. During flowering the plants need more P (phosphorus) and more K (potassium) than they did during vegetative growth. They need some N (nitrogen) but not as much as they did during seedling/vegetative growth. They also need secondary nutrients and trace elements. If you used: If you can't find nutrients containing the proper combination for your needs (or you are not sure what kind of nutrient to get), look for a hydroponic nutrient recommended for growth when the plant is in the first stages of life and look for a hydroponic nutrient recommended for blooming (or flowering) when the plant is in the flowering stage. Make sure the nutrients you use contain secondary nutrients and trace elements. Two and three part hydroponic nutrient solutions, that allow you to custom blend the amount of the different components, are recommended. Organic hydroponic nutrients are available but they can be harder to find, and expensive. Do not give your plants extra nutrients thinking it will make them grow faster. Too much will kill your plants. If you under fertilize, plant growth will be slowed but they will stay alive much longer than if they got too much. Follow the mixing instructions on your hydroponic nutrient package, if you aren't sure, use less rather than more. As water evaporates and is absorbed by the plants, your water reservoir level will drop. Add tap water that has been aged 3 days or longer to top up the reservoir. If you have a reverse osmosis filter or use distilled water, they don't have to be aged. I don't add nutrients to the water when I top up the reservoir tank (the nutrient solution is changed every 3-4 days), but some people do. Change the nutrient solution every 2 weeks, or more often. That is, discard the old solution then wipe clean and rinse off the reservoir, pumps, and other equipment that comes into contact with the nutrient solution. After cleaning, add water to the reservoir then add nutrient solution. If hard to access, you only need to clean the cups (net pots) and interior of tubing that come into contact with nutrient solution before you start a new crop. The old solution that you are discarding can be used to water house or garden plants. This will at least double the growth rate if you usually water your plants with regular tap water. My plants have been very happy with vita grow dry. Part A (SuperMicro Dry 4-14-24) contains 4% N, 14% P, and 24% K as well as the secondary nutrients sulphur and magnesium. It also includes the trace elements boron, chlorine, cobalt, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Part B (FastGrow Dry 17-0-0) contains 17% N as well as the secondary nutrient calcium. Part C (GiantBloom Dry 0-51-34) contains 51% P and 34% K. By adjusting the amount of each part, you can optimize the proportions your plants get during different stages of plant life. There is also an alternate Part B (SuperGrow Dry 15-0-0) designed for light sources under 400 watts, available in the Combination Dry box. It is mostly comprised of nitrate nitrogen. The plant takes more time to digest the nitrate nitrogen at low light levels. This keeps stem cell growth paced with the accumulation of micro-nutrients and calcium. Otherwise, plant stretching with spindly weak stems occur. Dry Powder vs Liquid NutrientsIf you are buying nutrients, think about getting the dry powder kind that you mix with water. They are much cheaper over the long run when you compare with already mixed liquid solutions. Already mixed liquid solutions are just as good, but many are primarily water and a good portion of the price you pay is to cover shipping water that you can add at home for free. There are some concentrated solutions that may be cost effective but I've always saved money using dry powder nutrients. If you are using a hydroponic system that uses a pump to circulate water you will have to make sure the powdered solution dissolves fully before adding it to the reservoir. This is because any undissolved nutrient crystals can ruin a pump. A good way to dissolve dry nutrients is to put some water in a cup, add the nutrient powder and stir. When you are sure that the powder has been fully dissolved, you can add it to the nutrient reservoir. If there are any undissolved crystals left in the bottom of the glass you can add some warm water then stir and let sit for a few hours. After a few hours, stir up again and add to the reservoir. If there are still undissolved crystals in the glass, you can throw them out. Don't use any nutrients not specifically designed for hydroponic systems. That is, don't try to use nutrients designed strictly for growing in soil. In most cases, nutrients designed for soil growing will not fully dissolve fast enough to be introduced into a nutrient reservoir. Stop all plant food at least 7 days before harvesting when growing in a hydroponic garden. The last time you change the water in your reservoir, don't add any nutrients. You can repeat this water only 'feeding' several times in the week prior to harvest. When growing in soil, stop all plant food at least 14 days before harvest. This is so N-P-K and other elements can be removed from the plants before harvesting. This will ensure that your weed is easier to ignite, doesn't taste like plant food, and you are ingesting a minimal amount of N-P-K, secondary nutrients, or trace elements. See when to harvest your marijuana crop for more info. copyright © www.a1b2c3.com/drugs/ Books Grow Great Marijuana: |
It's a 3 part nutrient that can be employed for both hydroponic and soil growing.